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- FOOD, Page 58Sweet Vino
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- High-quality Chilean wines impress even the Rothschilds
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- Budget-conscious oenophiles have long admired Chile's
- moderately priced, eminently drinkable wines. Despite their
- relatively unsophisticated technology, Chilean vintners have
- consistently produced supple reds that are notable for fruit and
- balance, as well as soft but less distinctive whites. The Wine
- Spectator, the leading American journal of wines and spirits,
- last year gave an impressive 88 (on a scale of 100) and a
- best-buy rating to Vina Los Vascos' 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon,
- which sells in the U.S. for a mere $5. Other bargain-priced
- Chilean wines, including Concha y Toro and St. Morillon, have
- also scored well in U.S. tastings.
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- With such gung-ho scouting reports, it was only a matter of
- time before the big leaguers moved in. After two years of
- negotiations, Les Domaines des Barons de Rothschild, the firm
- that manages France's prestigious Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, has
- purchased a half interest in Los Vascos, a 500-acre vineyard
- located some 90 miles southwest of Santiago. French experts are
- already working on this year's vintage, and Christophe Salin,
- deputy managing director of Les Domaines, promises that "1989,
- which is currently being harvested, should be better yet."
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- Details of the deal were not disclosed, but it was probably a
- bargain by French standards: prime vineyards in Chile sell for
- $4,000 to $6,000 an acre, compared with as much as $400,000 in
- France's Bordeaux region. The country has a host of
- grape-hospitable regions whose weather remains remarkably stable
- from year to year. Chilean grapevines, of mostly transplanted
- French and some German stock, are unscathed by the Phylloxera
- that devastated Californian and European vines in the 19th
- century. With an annual output of some 70 million gal., Chile
- ranks 13th among the world's wine producers. Los Vascos, with
- a yearly capacity of 423,000 gal., is unusual among the
- country's vineyards in that most of its wines are exported to
- the U.S., Canada, England, Denmark and, yes, France.
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